Long Distance Spin Casting

Long Distance Spin Casting

Article by Randy Kadish









You read up on it. You become sure you can do it. After all, hitting a good tee shot seems a lot harder than casting a spinning rod.So you march to the lake with visions of hooking and landing a faraway lunker. You set up your fishing rod and step up to the bank and cast. Your lure, however, flies off to the right and not very far. You cast again and again. The results don’t change.

Golf didn’t seem this frustrating! So you think all you need is some practice.

But after hours and hours of it, you’re still in the same, going-nowhere casting boat, so to speak.

How discouraging! Even makes you think about giving up fishing.

Yes, I know!

But instead of giving up, I wondered, what if there’s a lot more to casting a spinning rod than what I read? What if I experiment with using other techniques, the techniques of throwing a ball and of casting a fly rod?

So I began a year of casting trials and errors. Lots of errors!

Then finally it happened: consistently, I felt the beauty of loading the rod, of watching the lure streak over the water, and land right where I wanted it to.

Here’s how I got there.

THE STANCE. I want to use one that helps me shift my weight so I get as much leverage as possible, and helps me increase the length of my casting stroke, and therefore the bend, or load, in the rod. I’m right handed, so I put my left foot forward and point it straight ahead. I turn my right foot outward about thirty degrees. My feet are shoulder-width apart. The front of my right foot is in-line with the front of my left heel. (If my right foot is too far back or too far pointed outward, I’ll lock my hips and not be able to fully rotate by body and shift all my weight.) I square my hips and shoulders to the target, slightly bend my knees and shift my weight to the ball of my front foot. My right heel is off the ground. I flex my thumb and put it on the top of the rod handle. I hold the rod loosely and point it anywhere from nine o’clock to ten-thirty. My elbow is even with the front of my waist. The lure hangs down about a foot.THE POWER GRIP. I start with two fingers in front of the reel stem and two behind. I pick up the line with my right index finger, and then move my hand back so only my line finger is in front of the stem. Next, I pull the line up and back, then press my fingertip against the stem, but not against the line. (I like to feel the weight of the lure to cast it accurately.)

I hold the line this way for the same reason a good fly caster doesn’t let slack form in his fly line: to keep constant tension on the line so as soon as I start the cast the lure pulls on the rod, and therefore fully loads the rod. Holding the line the conventional way made it impossible for me to keep enough tension on the line. Even worse, I found it very difficult to keep my index finger from prematurely straightening and releasing the line.No wonder my casts were short, and high and off to the side.

(Until I got my timing down, I used a golf glove or a Band-Aid to prevent the line from cutting into my finger.)

MOVING THE ROD. I initially assumed the faster I moved the rod the farther I’d cast. For two reasons I was wrong. First: a pitcher achieves maximum power and velocity only when his arm moves in sync with his body rotation. If his arm gets ahead of his body he becomes an “arm thrower.”

No wonder major league pitchers seem to throw as if not using all their might! Maximum arm speed is reached only at the release.Fly casters will tell you the same thing, and also for the second reason: to fully load the rod it must accelerate. If it moves too quickly the speed of the line, or in our case the lure, moves almost as fast as the rod, and therefore doesn’t fully pull on and load the rod. The cast dies well short of its target.

(A stiffer rod loads better with a shorter, faster stroke, but the stroke must still be accelerated.)

THE CAST AND POWER SNAP. I begin the cast by opening the bail, raising my elbow and slowly accelerating the rod up and back. As I move the rod, I rotate my shoulders backwards and shift my weight to the heel of my back foot. When the rod points to about one o’clock I break my wrist back. My elbow continues to point forward. (If it points out to the side, I’ll not be able finish the cast without lowering the rod tip from the target line, and prematurely unloading the rod.) When my forearm points to about one o’clock, and my upper arm points parallel to the water or slightly upward, and the rod points parallel to the water or slightly downward, I immediately and quickly start my forward cast.

(During the back cast I never move the rod too fast. If I do, the lure will bounce at the end of the cast and prematurely unload the rod.)

My eyes are focused on an imaginary target in the sky, about forty-five degrees above the water, but higher if the wind is from behind or lower if it is from in front.Leading with my elbow, rotating my shoulders and shoulders I accelerate the rod and soon move the tip in a straight line that points to the target and move the rod butt at a right angle to the line. (Fully rotating our hips and shoulders allows us to increase the length we can move-and therefore load-the rod at this angle.)When my arm is about three-quarters extended, I increase my grip pressure and my acceleration and shift all my weight to my front foot. I reach maximum arm speed then, as if I’m hammering a nail, I snap my wrist without lowering the rod tip from the target line.

Abruptly, I stop the rod.My front leg is now straight. My right shoulder is all the way forward. My arm is fully extended. My weight is on the ball and toes of my front foot. I hold the rod still so I don’t lower the tip and pull the line down.

AS I DESCRIBE ALL THIS. Learning to cast a spinning rod seems a lot easier than it was. Well maybe if, like most skilled golfers, I had learned the right techniques from the start it would’ve been.But better late than never.



About the Author

Randy’s writing has appeared in many publications, including The Flyfisher, Flyfishing & Tying Journal and Fishing And Hunting News. He is also the author of the historical fly-fishing and fly-casting novel, The Fly Caster Who Tried To Make Peace With the World – now an ebook.

Much of Randy’s writing is about the techniques of spin and fly casting and about the spirituality/recovery of fly fishing.

Visit his website at: http://www.flyandspincasting.com










Methods To Lower Your Golf Handicap

Methods To Lower Your Golf Handicap

Article by A R Bell







Most amateur golfers are in envy of the professional players. I know that I am. You seen them swinging just like you do but they can hit the ball over 300 yards, get the ball to spin back to the hole and get out of bunkers the first time without digging themselves a big sand pit, whilst you are always looking for ways to lower your golf score.

As I said before I’m just an amateur golfer but here are some of the tips that I have used to improve my game.

Practice regularly

Now I know that this may be obvious, but people who play golf expect to play just as good as they did in their last round. When you have not practiced between rounds you can lose they rhythm which you had and have to start again when you start another round.

Don’t try and hit the ball too hard,

A nice steady easy swing can hit the ball just as far, just because it works for some of the pro’s it might not work for you and if you try to hit the ball too hard you can go off balance.

If you find that you are slicing the ball, pull you left foot slightly back. (only try this in practice as this could effect your round if you do not need to change) If you find that you are hooking the ball, your right hand may be too far round on your grip, forcing your hands to roll over at the end of your swing. Putting, always always practice your putting. This can take up to double figures off your round and is one of the top ways to lower your golf scor, by stopping you 3 and maybe 4 putting on the greens.

Or alternatively you could have lessons which I did and they made me worse. I would struggle to get the ball past the peak of my cap never mind splitting the fair way in half which is what the instructor said I would. Now this may not be the same for everyone, but not everyone can afford golf lessons.

improve your fitness

In the game of golf you use muscles which are not always used in every day activities so these can damage your round This aspect is very important as your swing can deteriorate as your round goes on if you start to tire. If your legs,back or arms start to ache you are not going to achieve the maximum power and acuracy from your swing. Before your round you need to stretch properly and warm up before each round. If you start a round cold you could pull or over stretch which could stop you playing until you have healed properly.

To lower your handicap and start enjoying playing golf Click Here!



About the Author

Golf enthusiastwho enjoys playing and wathcing golf..

Golf Tips for Selecting a Putter

Golf Tips for Selecting a Putter

Golf Tips for Selecting a Putter

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Golf Tips for Selecting a Putter

By: Daive
Posted: Dec 05, 2010

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Whether you are usually generally the beginner golfer or even a seasoned pro, you probably know that will will choosing the right putter at golfleading.com is essential to playing your greatest game. Many golf magazines and website list dozens of putters guaranteed to end up being the right, however choosing your #1 golf putter requires some time and investigation.

 

Standard steel confront putters could possibly be popular, but their performance is not equal to the guaranteed putter at golfleading.com quality of other versions along with insert technology. Some the best putters reviewed, and currently on the marketplace, get this insert technology which makes it possible for for a more superior spin. The material in the insert is able to “hug” the ball, and since speak to is prolonged (against metallic putter); the ball is over some sort of straighter, truer trajectory. The best putters need to respond to your actions instantly, having no unwanted curvature or perhaps adhere. Depending on your know-how, the putter using this insert technology may be an outstanding choice for you.

 

If you wish to obtain an insert technology putter, another thing to consider is the adjusted insert when choosing your #1 golf putter. You can regularly obtain around 4-5 various adjusted inserts that are decided on depending on low-high velocity, and the green profile. For example, if you tend to possibly be playing a fast green using choice rate, you choose the adjusted insert picked for your putter. This way you are invested in some sort of new guaranteed putter that may create finest benefits.

 

Tips for Purchasing Putters

 

1. Usually take into consideration your stage and expertise.

 

The greatest putters can end up being made to fit your needs; a few tend to always be better suited for beginners and others for advanced stage players. Customizing your putter to your level is a must for a great performance!

 

2. Take time to study emerging technology.

 

As we mentioned above, the new technology evolving customized inserts is exciting and valuable. Even though it may well not be the right alternative for everyone, taking the time to investigation and try different options is always to your advantage, and will help you find in which will greatest putter.

 

3. Compare prices online and in-store.

 

Once you get narrowed down your choices, accomplish some investigation upon pricing? Costs can sometimes significantly differ online and in store, since online retailers regularly have a much better wholesale stock. A #1 golf putter can always become more powerful using any lower price, and many online retailers offer discounted shipping offers.

 

4. Take pleasure in your latest Titleist Scotty Cameron Studio Select Newport 2 Putter.

 

Exactly what great might that will will new #1 golf putter not possess some use? Therefore head out there and take pleasure in your latest buy, and prepare positive you keep any and every warranty/receipt records, simply in position!

Daive – About the Author:

Exactly what great might that will will new #1 golf putter not possess some use? Therefore head out there and take pleasure in your latest buy, and prepare positive you keep any and every warranty/receipt records, simply in position!

Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/golf-articles/golf-tips-for-selecting-a-putter-3791546.html

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Long Distance Spin Casting

Long Distance Spin Casting

You read up on it. You become sure you can do it. After all, hitting a good tee shot seems a lot harder than casting a spinning rod.

So you march to the lake with visions of hooking and landing a faraway lunker. You set up your fishing rod and step up to the bank and cast. Your lure, however, flies off to the right and not very far. You cast again and again. The results don’t change.

Golf didn’t seem this frustrating! So you think all you need is some practice.

But after hours and hours of it, you’re still in the same, going-nowhere casting boat, so to speak.

How discouraging! Even makes you think about giving up fishing.

Yes, I know!

But instead of giving up, I wondered, what if there’s a lot more to casting a spinning rod than what I read? What if I experiment with using other techniques, the techniques of throwing a ball and of casting a fly rod?

So I began a year of casting trials and errors. Lots of errors!

Then finally it happened: consistently, I felt the beauty of loading the rod, of watching the lure streak over the water, and land right where I wanted it to.

Here’s how I got there.

THE STANCE. I want to use one that helps me shift my weight so I get as much leverage as possible, and helps me increase the length of my casting stroke, and therefore the bend, or load, in the rod. I’m right handed, so I put my left foot forward and point it straight ahead. I turn my right foot outward about thirty degrees. My feet are shoulder-width apart. The front of my right foot is in-line with the front of my left heel. (If my right foot is too far back or too far pointed outward, I’ll lock my hips and not be able to fully rotate by body and shift all my weight.) I square my hips and shoulders to the target, slightly bend my knees and shift my weight to the ball of my front foot. My right heel is off the ground. I flex my thumb and put it on the top of the rod handle. I hold the rod loosely and point it anywhere from nine o’clock to ten-thirty. My elbow is even with the front of my waist. The lure hangs down about a foot.

THE POWER GRIP. I start with two fingers in front of the reel stem and two behind. I pick up the line with my right index finger, and then move my hand back so only my line finger is in front of the stem. Next, I pull the line up and back, then press my fingertip against the stem, but not against the line. (I like to feel the weight of the lure to cast it accurately.)

I hold the line this way for the same reason a good fly caster doesn’t let slack form in his fly line: to keep constant tension on the line so as soon as I start the cast the lure pulls on the rod, and therefore fully loads the rod. Holding the line the conventional way made it impossible for me to keep enough tension on the line. Even worse, I found it very difficult to keep my index finger from prematurely straightening and releasing the line.

No wonder my casts were short, and high and off to the side.

(Until I got my timing down, I used a golf glove or a Band-Aid to prevent the line from cutting into my finger.)

MOVING THE ROD. I initially assumed the faster I moved the rod the farther I’d cast. For two reasons I was wrong. First: a pitcher achieves maximum power and velocity only when his arm moves in sync with his body rotation. If his arm gets ahead of his body he becomes an “arm thrower.”

No wonder major league pitchers seem to throw as if not using all their might! Maximum arm speed is reached only at the release.

Fly casters will tell you the same thing, and also for the second reason: to fully load the rod it must accelerate. If it moves too quickly the speed of the line, or in our case the lure, moves almost as fast as the rod, and therefore doesn’t fully pull on and load the rod. The cast dies well short of its target.

(A stiffer rod loads better with a shorter, faster stroke, but the stroke must still be accelerated.)

THE CAST AND POWER SNAP. I begin the cast by opening the bail, raising my elbow and slowly accelerating the rod up and back. As I move the rod, I rotate my shoulders backwards and shift my weight to the heel of my back foot. When the rod points to about one o’clock I break my wrist back. My elbow continues to point forward. (If it points out to the side, I’ll not be able finish the cast without lowering the rod tip from the target line, and prematurely unloading the rod.)  When my forearm points to about one o’clock, and my upper arm points parallel to the water or slightly upward, and the rod points parallel to the water or slightly downward, I immediately and quickly start my forward cast.

(During the back cast I never move the rod too fast. If I do, the lure will bounce at the end of the cast and prematurely unload the rod.)

My eyes are focused on an imaginary target in the sky, about forty-five degrees above the water, but higher if the wind is from behind or lower if it is from in front.

Leading with my elbow, rotating my shoulders and shoulders I accelerate the rod and soon move the tip in a straight line that points to the target and move the rod butt at a right angle to the line. (Fully rotating our hips and shoulders allows us to increase the length we can move—and therefore load—the rod at this angle.)

When my arm is about three-quarters extended, I increase my grip pressure and my acceleration and shift all my weight to my front foot. I reach maximum arm speed then, as if I’m hammering a nail, I snap my wrist without lowering the rod tip from the target line. Abruptly, I stop the rod.

My front leg is now straight. My right shoulder is all the way forward. My arm is fully extended. My weight is on the ball and toes of my front foot. I hold the rod still so I don’t lower the tip and pull the line down.

AS I DESCRIBE ALL THIS. Learning to cast a spinning rod seems a lot easier than it was. Well maybe if, like most skilled golfers, I had learned the right techniques from the start it would’ve been.

But better late than never.

I’m a native New Yorker. My writing has appeared in many publications, including The Flyfisher, Flyfishing & Tying Journal and Fishing And Hunting News. I’m also the author of the historical novel, The Fly Caster Who Tried To Make Peace With the World.

Much of my writing is about the techniques of spin and fly casting and about the spirituality/recovery of fly fishing. I often fish the streams of Westchester, the piers of New York City and the lakes of Central Park.

What Causes a Golf Shot to Slice or Hook Anyway?

What Causes a Golf Shot to Slice or Hook Anyway?

While there are many variables that can cause a golf ball to curve, only two things can happen at the time the club meets the ball that can affect the direction of the ball. This article explains what causes a misdirected golf shot not how to fix the problems. Information on learning the fundamentals of a sound golf shot are at the end of this article. So the first factor which causes a slice or hook is the direction that the club head is traveling when it hit the ball and the second is the position of the club head at the time it contacts the golf ball.

 

The Direction of the Club

As the club comes down from the top of your swing it travels inside, or close to your body, and then travels straight down the line leading to your target. After it hit’s the ball it should then travel back inside the line and on to the finish of your swing. At least that’s how it’s suppose to work. Unfortunately, this isn’t always the case. Now if you swing inside/out then when your club meets the ball it will still be traveling to the right of the target, which will cause the ball to start traveling to the right. If the opposite is true and you swing outside/in, then when the club hit’s the ball you will start the ball off to the left. If you swing inside/out then you initially “push” your shot. And if you swing outside/in then you initially “pull” the ball.

In both cases, if you hit the ball squarely with the club face facing the same direction that the club is going then you will have a push to the right or a pull to the left. Not so bad. If however you have the club face facing the target and the club direction to either the right or left then you will impart a spin on the ball. This is sometimes referred to as cutting across the ball. This will cause the golf ball to curve in the direction of the spin. The result is a draw to the left or a fade to the right.

The Position of the Club Head

Now the other factor that determines a slice of a fade, the position of the club head at impact. This determines whether there will be a side spin on the ball or not. Ideally you will swing directly at the target with the club head facing directly at the target too. This results in a ball that does not have side spin and your golf shot will travel straight providing the wind does not affect it. But if you contact the ball with the club face facing to the right (open face) or with the club face facing to the left (closed face) then you will cause the ball to spin. This spin causes the ball to fade or slice to the right, or draw or hook to the left.

A Deadly Combination 

If you have the misfortune of combining either a push or a pull with an open face or closed face, then you have real trouble. If your shot initially starts to the left and then curves to the right, you have an outside/in swing with an open club face. This will result in a slice. The more you pull the shot or the more open your club face the more extreme your slice will be. This is where that banana slice comes from. You know, the shot that looks like it’s going into the woods on the left only to end up in the water on the right.

Conversely, if your shot starts to the right and then curves to the left, then you have an inside/out swing with a closed club face which will result in a hook. And of course the more you push the shot or close the face the more extreme the hook will be. And we all know where that shot ends up.

 

 

What it Takes to Fix it

Now that you know what two factors cause a slice of fade you can fiddle with your swing to see if you can straighten it out a bit. But of course the sure cure is a fundamentally sound golf swing. One that is repeatable and dependable. Weight shift, hip turn, shoulder position, wrist roll are all important to a sound golf swing. Investing in reliable golf instruction may be a wise investment in achieving this type of swing. Especially considering what golf costs these days.

 

A great affordable e-course is available that will teach you these fundamentals and you can even receive 5 FREE GOLF VIDEOS with no obligation just for checking it out. One of the videos is hilarious and amazing at the same time! You won’t want to miss it. So do yourself a favor and go to www.Golf1.webstarts.com NOW. 

 

 

 

   

David Faircloth is not a golf pro, just a student of the golf swing. He enjoys helping others improve and enjoy the game of golf more. www.Golf1.webstarts.com

The Truth about how to correct a golf slice

The Truth about how to correct a golf slice

nearly all advice given to fix your golf slice is incorrect. By that, I’m also referencing numerous professionals who have probably cured their personal golf slice.

Personally, I’m not a pro – I’m actually not even really good. Nevertheless, I’m going to teach you a technique that, should you keep in mind and implement, will fix your golf slice every time.

Definition of a Golf Slice

This is almost a absurd question, since I doubt many of you are reading this without having experienced a slice. Nonetheless, bear with me.

You have hit a slice when the golf ball starts travelling a single path and then curves towards right (for any right-handed golfer) while in the air. Put simply, the golf ball may well begin by flying still left of, straight at, or right of your intended target. Nonetheless, during flight, the ball will veer to the right (again, for any right-handed golfer).

It isn’t a slice when the ball simply flies directly to the right!

Golf Slice Cause

A golfswing is quite complex and, consequently, frustrating. Nevertheless, the cause of the golf slice is comparatively easy, as there’s only 1 cause.

In case you routinely hit a golf slice, it is invariably because your swing is “outside-in”.

Picture a top or a ball spinning on the floor. In case you wanted to keep it spinning, you may possibly use your hand and ‘swipe’ the top or ball in the direction that it is currently spinning. You would NOT use your hand to hit the top or ball this kind of that the impact was straight At the top or ball. A slice is caused by the exact same general ‘swiping’ motion. The golf club head has ‘swiped’ the golf ball rather than hitting immediately at and through the golf ball, thereby causing the golf ball to spin.

Don’t get me wrong: I’m not pretending that it’s not a problem if your golf ball starts out way too far right. However, that alone isn’t a slice. Getting a golf ball begin out too far right is induced through the clubface getting way too open upon impact with the golf ball.

A single quick trick to Fix your Golf Slice

Focus on your follow-through! Invariably, if you are hitting a slice, the simplest method to fix it really is to make sure that you simply end your swing with your shoulders square to your hips and together with your hands (and the golf club) either directly in front of you or else to your right a little. I think that the least complicated method to recognize this is purely to take a bit of time next time you might be at the driving range and attempt to conclude with your hands further and further to your right. Rather than thinking about finishing with the golf club pointed back above your left shoulder (which is how numerous men and women picture the conclusion of their swing), picture finishing with the club pointed back over your right shoulder.

Now let me throw out this caveat: focusing on your follow-through is somewhat of a “trick”. By that I mean that it will not necessarily give you the perfect swing plane, nor will it fix several other problems in your golf swing. However, focusing on your own follow-through will teach you tips on how to feel whether you’re hitting “outside-in” or “inside-out” and will offer you an quick method to fix your golf slice.

If you want a truly impeccable swing, then you need to concentrate on a single basic (grip, positioning, and so forth.) at a time and produce a basic, repeatable swing. Personally, I’ve discovered that one particular specific ebook, The Simple Golf Swing distills a whole lot of info into a very easy and easy-to-follow set of instructions. This book has helped me dramatically in my capability to simplify and improve my golf swing. Click here to go through a review of The Simple Golf Swing.

Hi!  I am 36, from Columbus, and I am currently unemployed but looking for a job in sales.