Something for the weekend

Something for the weekend

Article by Cheapgolf







When you go for a custom-fitting session, as I did yesterday, at Titleist’s state-of-the art facility at St Ives Golf Club, it’s important to ideally bring your ‘A game’ to the bay (or as near as possible) so the clubs you’re planning to use, can compliment your current swing.

Obviously faults can creep in but PGA-trained fitter Richard Harries gave me a tip he always used in the early part of his amateur career Callaway FT I-Bird Irons helps to square the shoulders at address and reduces the risk of them opening up to the target as you grip the club, forcing a tendency to slice.

He recommends: “As a right-hander I was always encouraged to grip the club with the left hand and place the clubhead behind the ball, with my right hand behind my back.

“This way, the teaching pro watching from down the line, could see the correct position of the inside of my left elbow with my shoulders square to the target. Step two is to then bring in the right hand on to the grip from underneath the shaft and into position.

“TaylorMade Burner Plus Irons helps retain the shoulders in a square position, as opposed to immediately putting the right hand on top of the grip and tending to force the shoulders open.” Hopefully it’s a tip that will work for you, too and immediately reduce the chances of that destructive out-to-in swingpath which can cause the dreaded slice.

Experts said Joe’s swing was ugly – too wide with toes at right angles to his target (instead of slightly splayed) – and that he got himself airborne at impact. But boy was it effective. And he used the massive power and momentum he generated in his follow through to launch the ball consistently long against allcomers, using a Krank Golf Rage drive to deliver a ball speed of 225 mph.

In the final he met 16-year-old American Joe Mazza, with his far more orthodox golf swing, but the youngster was no match for Miller. As the huge stadium crowd held their breath Miller blasted his tee shot down the right centre and it looked to be heading just out of bounds until TaylorMade R7 Draw Irons took a ‘members’ bounce’ left and rolled out to the 410 yard marker.

Mazza could only reply with a drive of 371 yards, enabling Miller to claim the 0,000 winner’s cheque. “I don’t know what to say,” said an almost speechless Miller. “I came together in my last round and got a great bounce to the left to stay in bounds. It is a dream come true.”



About the Author

I live in New York.

Titleist Scotty Cameron Studio Select Newport Putter Review

Titleist Scotty Cameron Studio Select Newport Putter Review

If you are not always playing a hole in one then you need a putter, especially a good one to win the game. You need it to put the ball precisely and confidently into the hole, so it is necessary and essential. The Titleist Scotty Cameron Studio Select Newport 2 Putter is a precision milled 303 Stainless Steel head with a high toe profile and circular heel and toe sole weights that provide more stability by reducing twisting on off-center hits. The high toe profile helps reduce the tendency to raise the toe at address for better accuracy. The factory adjustable weights are set to provide the proper head weight to shaft ratio for the perfect feel. You can find discount for golf online to reduce some cost on this pricy putter.  

 

Features:

 

Heel and toe weighting has been enhanced with the placement of two circular weights in the sole of the putter head. This creates a higher MOI for increased clubhead stability, giving pin-point accuracy and a larger sweet spot.

 

Crafted from soft 303 Stainless Steel to deliver a crisp, solid feel at impact and enhances durability.

 

The high toe setup eliminates the tendancy to raise the toe at address which causes the player to aim left of target.

 

The Titleist Scotty Cameron Studio Select Newport 2 Putter uses a full offset hosel with a plumbing neck.

Bold ‘tour-inspired’ cosmetics include three large red dots on the back of the putter, three smaller red dots on the heel of the face, and distinct Studio Select graphics, shaftband and headcover. The bespoke model name is also engraved into the sole.

 

Fitted with a stepless steel shaft to give a clean, classic appearance with a soft, yet solid feel.

 

Fitted with a Red Scotty Cameron cord putter grip.

 

The matching Studio Select headcover is provided free of charge when you place your order through the website.

 

No matter on which level you are, the Titleist Scotty Cameron Studio Select Newport 2 Putter will give you max precision and accuracy when putting the ball. It could just be a good putter for any golfer.

The Golf Fade Shot ?Tips – How to Hit a Fade

The Golf Fade Shot ?Tips – How to Hit a Fade

Most weekend Golfers hit a fade naturally or its ugly sister the slice. The fade is a higher hit shot than the draw and doesn’t run far when it lands. It’s the perfect shot to play into the heart of a green because it stops quickly and lands softly.

Lee Trevino was the master of the fade shot and he once said he can make the ball hit the green like a butterfly with sore feet. The one thing that should be remembered with this shot is that it will cost you a bit of distance. So you should remember to go up one or two clubs to make up for the loss.

To set up for the fade, I would first keep my stance open, by this I mean that your feet hips and shoulders should all be aiming slightly to the left of your target. With this stance it will encourage an out to in swing path for the club head. This will in turn create a clockwise spin on the golf ball.

You should next set up and adjust your grip. At this point take a look at how you normally grip the club. If you tend to hook the ball, the chances are that you have a strong grip i.e. your hands are turned to the right of the grip and you can see three knuckles of your left hand.

For the fade shot it is required that you use a weaker grip where the left hand is turned slightly to the left on the golf grip. If you already slice the ball you may not need to move your grip so much. Just aiming your body left of target might just be enough for this shot.

The final part of the set up is the ball position relative to where you would normally play it. I you normally hit a straight ball you should place the ball about one ball width further forward in your stance. This will allow you to hit the fade with a bit more height on the ball.

So the key points to hitting the fade are to set up with your body aligned slightly left of target with the club aligned to the target. Your grip should be weaker or turned slightly to the left on the grip. The ball position should be brought slightly forward in your stance.

Being able to fade the ball is quite useful in a variety of situations and it is essential if you ever want to improve your game.

If you want to improve at golf and take your game to the next level. Subscribe to the Authors Free Golf Tips Newsletter at http://www.acegolftips.com free golf e-books are included to start your golf improvement today.

How to Fix Your Slice – Part 1

How to Fix Your Slice – Part 1

A golf slice can be devastating and very frustrating to a golfer. There are many factors that could cause you to slice the ball. If you find you slice the ball quite often then you will need to fix it.

If you want to improve your overall game and add distance to your shots. Imagine how far the ball would go if you could just straighten out your shot.

A golf slice occurs when your club is open upon impact of the club and relative to the path of the club head.

A wayward left hand is one of the common factors that can cause you to slice the ball far to the right. This happens more often than you would think. When a wayward left hand occurs the back of your left hand will be aligned to the right of the ball and the clubface will be open. This will cause a slice to happen.

If you want to repair a wayward left hand it is important to focus on the back of your hand. The back of your hand should be facing the target at impact. You should at least feel that the back of your hand is facing your target. This will allow you to have a strong grip for the shot so your hand doesn’t slip.

It is important to square your left hand. One of the best ways to do this is by practicing without using a club at all. You will stand with your right arm to the side of your body and rotate your left forearm. Then you will cock your left wrist and swing back. In order to be sure your hand is square practice your swing repeatedly without your club in your hand.

Scott Wells invites you to read http://tobeinformed.com/633/ – to understand more about gum disease. Something that golfers and non-golfers alike should be aware of.

http://www.Gingivitiskiller.com

Talk about Golf Swing Practice

Talk about Golf Swing Practice

Article by Marina







Spring is coming! Thought the weather is not enough warm to have a good golf time, more and more golfer want to do his golf swing practice in golf course.

Most golfers would not consider time on the practice green as developing the perfect golf swing. But I would suggest that the time you spend on the practice green learning how to sink those 4 to 5 foot putts allows the golfer to concentrate on his or hers next shot. Do you know how to do your golf swing practice?

In this article, I would like to talk about golf swing practice. If you want to know more Importance of Cleaning Golf Clubs, you may visit our website!

Simple Golf Swing can be a popular eBook that teaches easy and powerful principles for how you can swing a golf club. It has helped several golfers lower their scores and straighten their drives. Straightforward as this point may well sound, it really is one which is quickly overlooked.

Many golfers assume that as long as they devote adequate time on the practice range, their score will strengthen. Acquiring some spin on the ball using your golf iron may be a straightforward issue of utilizing ball-to-iron contact and speed of the clubhead. Once you can hit the golf ball and when there exists absolutely no mud-dirt or grass in front of the ball, subsequently you will put some sort of spin on it.

Golf is basically a target based game where you have to hit a ball that is stationed on the ground. This is easier said than done, is what all golfers must have realized by now.

The golf full swing is made up of several related movements that together form a unified whole. If you follow my suggestions, you should have a good time while hitting the ball by your TaylorMade R9 Irons . Do you agree with me?

Thanks for reading my article; I would recommend the good TaylorMade R9 Driver to you!



About the Author

I am a golfer! If you want to visit the discount golf store buy the TaylorMade R9 or reading golf articles in my blog – Online Golf UK Blog,you may also visit the Golfsales365.com.

Titleist Scotty Cameron California Del Mar Putter Review

Titleist Scotty Cameron California Del Mar Putter Review

This putter line features classic designs with modern weighting, and is milled from soft 303 Stainless Steel for soft sound and distance control. Its Honey Dipped finish provides a bronzed appearance and reduces glare. The draft sole design keeps the putter square at address for improved accuracy, while the high-toe profile eliminates the tendency to raise the toe at address, (Titleist Scotty Cameron California Del Mar Putter)preventing mis-alignment.

Classic Design with Modern Weighting: Provides clean aesthetics while offering better balance and higher inertia for solid feel.

Select Weighting Technology: Provides greater choices for length and weight to enhance performance for all types of players.

Milled From Soft, 303 Stainless Steel: For a soft sound and feel that promotes precise distance control.

Draft Sole Design: Keeps the putter square in the playing position for proper alignment.

High-Toe Profile: Aids alignment and eliminates the tendency to raise the toe at address causing a player to aim the putter to the left of the target.

Factory Custom Weights: Circular heel-toe weights provide greater stability by reducing head rotation on off-center impacts. Weights can be factory customized to make the head feel heavier to suit specific putting green conditions.

Honey Dipped Finish: Provides a deep, rich, non-glare appearance.

Stepless Steel Shaft: Provides a clean, (Titleist AP1 710 Irons) uninterrupted look at the ball in the address position and promotes better putter head feel throughout the stroke.

Black Cameron Tour Grip: Creates a soft, controlled feel for precise feedback.

Titleist Scotty Cameron California Putter are made with tour-proven designs, making use of modern weighting technology to give you more choices when it comes to length and weight for better performance when used for a variety of putting strokes.

These are made from precision milled 303 stainless steel added with circular weights in the heel and toe which can be adjusted to 33″, 34″ and 35″ lengths. Players can choose from different models namely Coronado, Monterey, Sonoma, Del Mar and Hollywood depending on the length, weight and neck configuration that you prefer.

These are made with a unique “Honey Dipped” finish giving these putters a bronze look that would look great with natural light and at the same time this look reduces glare. The putter’s bronze look is neither dipped nor is it plated. Manufacturers made use of heat-treated process to create the bronze appearance. (Titleist CB 710 Forged Irons ) These models are made with draft sole design to keep the putter square in its playing position giving it proper alignment and a high toe set-up.

From some of the players’point of view, they love the simple and classic look of the Scotty Cameron California Putter. According to one player, he can feel the position of the face because of its compact shape. All the models of the Scotty Cameron California Series Putter have flared toes but they differ in style. For instance, Monterey has a plumber’s neck hosel while the Sonoma has a wider body. On the other hand, the Coronado has a two-tier flange while the Del Mar has a pear-shaped flange.

Discount golf shop provides discount golf clubs 

When Seeking To Improve Your Golf Swing, Don’t Neglect The Set Up

When Seeking To Improve Your Golf Swing, Don’t Neglect The Set Up

Article by Stan Thomas







When you’re looking to improve your golf swing, don’t forget the basic premise of your set up. Jack Nicklaus has said many times that there is nothing more important in the game of golf than this.

Nicklaus: “If you set up correctly, there’s a good chance you’ll hit a reasonable shot, even if you make a mediocre swing. If you set up to the ball poorly, you’ll hit a lousy shot even if you make the greatest swing ever.” He went on to say that the set up is eighty per cent of the game of golf, and I concur.

When considering your set up, keep the following in mind: body alignment, the position of the head, your general stance, the placement of the ball between your feet and the distance the golf ball is from your body, and aim of the clubface itself.

It is easy to be distracted with the mechanics of your golf swing, but if you are to improve at playing golf, your set up is going to demand your constant attention. You’ll want to pay particular attention to the alignment of your body and the aim of your clubface.

How can you ever hope to hit a target if you don’t aim properly? How can you expect your body to perform the task of hitting a golf ball to a particular target if your mind is not focused and attentive to the target?

Golfers of all types could save themselves a lot of anguish and strokes by mastering the set up. But for many the set up seems too obvious of a task to cause concern. This is a big mistake.

The truth is that your golf swing begins before you begin to draw your club into the backswing. The golf swing actually begins at set up.

When addressing the golf ball, do the following:

· Make sure the clubface it square to the ball.

· Make sure your hands are comfortable and correctly gripping the club.

· Position your body properly over the ball.

It should be in that order. If you square the clubface first, it should make your stance follow properly and allow for a more exact aim.

To do this take the club in your right hand (if you are right-handed) and set the bottom of the edge of the club face perpendicular to the aim of your target. This should set your aim in direct contact with your goal.



About the Author

Stan Thomas has been playing golf since before dirt covered the earth. He knows he’ll never master the game, but he can’t deny the quest.

He invites you to visit his website:

http://www.golfimproveswing.com http://www.squidoo.com/golfimproveswing/

Tilt your head to stop slicing

Tilt your head to stop slicing

If you slice, your shoulders will be open or pointing left of target at the moment of impact. This means you have an out to in swing path.

 

But it’s not only your shoulders that point left. As your upper body has swung round, your head has been pulled to the left as well. At impact a line through your eyes would be pointing in the same direction as your shoulders – left of target.

 

To stop slicing and start coming into the Taylormade Tour Bunner Fairway Wood on the correct path, you have to find a way to keep the upper body from swinging open.

 

At address, tilt your head to the right so that a line drawn through your eyes would point to the right of target. On the back swing make sure it stays at that angle and you don’t cheat by letting it return to where it prefers to be.

 

If you concentrate on keeping the same head angle at the beginning of the downswing, it will help stop your shoulders dominating and swinging open. The more you want to hook the ball the more your head needs to be tilted to the right at address.

 

As the season starts to gain momentum tell us on the forum what’s the best tip you’ve had from a pro or a fellow golfer this year. Apart from dedicating yourself to more practice we want you to share your triumphs and disappointments by telling other passionate golfers what’s worked for you so far and what hasn’t.

What You Can Learn from Tiger’s Swing

What You Can Learn from Tiger’s Swing

In watching the PGA Championship this year, I marveled at how Tiger came from nowhere and finished in 3rd place at 2 under par (2 shots off of the lead).  If Phil Mickelson hadn’t hung on, this performance of Tiger’s could have tied or even won the championship.  It’s Tiger’s unbelievable perseverance that’s lead me to write this tip.

Tiger’s Perseverance

Have you also noticed that just when you think Tiger is totally out of it, he’s back in it?  Do you ever wonder why this is?  It’s because Tiger never gives up.  He knows that anything could happen in this game.  He knows the pressure that is associated with this game and the pressure that is put on the other players who are in the lead.  Tiger can withstand this pressure, whereas, other pros cannot.  He knows that in major tournaments, the field will usually come back to him.  So if he can grind away and just get a couple of shots back on the field he’s right back in the hunt.  If Tiger was someone who gave up when he was playing poorly, he wouldn’t consistently be in the top ten in the majority of tournaments he plays in.

The Difference Between You and Tiger

The major difference between how Tiger can grind his way back from a poor round, and you can’t, is that Tiger has the ability to re-focus and re-group.  After his poor play, he has given himself a reality check and has realized that he has to re-focus and re-group if he wants to get back in the game.  If you watch him when he’s in “grinding mode”, you will see that he totally slows everything down.  He thinks about what shot he is going to hit longer.   He stands over it longer making sure he is 100% committed before pulling the trigger.  He visualizes the shot and focuses on the target longer.   All of these things combined gets him back in the game.

When finding yourself in a sticky situation like this, you tend to do the opposite.  You dwell on the past.  You get mad at yourself.  You start over analyzing your swing.   You swing harder and harder.   All of these things tend to speed you up and hamper your ability to get back in the game.   This loss of focus sometimes ends up making you play even worse or play so poorly that you end up quitting which is something Tiger would never do.

How to Switch to “Grind Mode” Like Tiger

As you continue to play this great game of golf, you will always have your ups and downs.  You will never be great all of the time.  With this in mind, you really have to have a game plan the next time you lose your game.  In order to flip the switch and get into the “grinding mode” like Tiger, just follow these steps:

1.  Never quit – tell yourself that you are not a quitter in life so you shouldn’t quit while playing golf.

2.  Give yourself permission to make mistakes – realize that you will never be perfect while playing this game.

3.  Forget the past – think only about the shot at hand.

4.  Forget swing mechanics – think about swinging at an easy pace that you can handle.

5.  Focus even harder on the target you are trying to hit to – isolate the exact spot you want to hit to.

6.  Choose the right club for the situation – if in doubt, always take more club not less.

7.  Be 100% committed to the shot before you pull the trigger – you have to eliminate any doubt in any shot including putting.

8.  Take your time – slowing down calms you down and allows you to think more clearly about the shot at hand.

Now that you have a few ideas of how to “grind it out” or “re-group” try to take them with you the next time you go to play.  Who knows that bad stretch of holes may be closer than you think.

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Long Distance Spin Casting

Long Distance Spin Casting

You read up on it. You become sure you can do it. After all, hitting a good tee shot seems a lot harder than casting a spinning rod.

So you march to the lake with visions of hooking and landing a faraway lunker. You set up your fishing rod and step up to the bank and cast. Your lure, however, flies off to the right and not very far. You cast again and again. The results don’t change.

Golf didn’t seem this frustrating! So you think all you need is some practice.

But after hours and hours of it, you’re still in the same, going-nowhere casting boat, so to speak.

How discouraging! Even makes you think about giving up fishing.

Yes, I know!

But instead of giving up, I wondered, what if there’s a lot more to casting a spinning rod than what I read? What if I experiment with using other techniques, the techniques of throwing a ball and of casting a fly rod?

So I began a year of casting trials and errors. Lots of errors!

Then finally it happened: consistently, I felt the beauty of loading the rod, of watching the lure streak over the water, and land right where I wanted it to.

Here’s how I got there.

THE STANCE. I want to use one that helps me shift my weight so I get as much leverage as possible, and helps me increase the length of my casting stroke, and therefore the bend, or load, in the rod. I’m right handed, so I put my left foot forward and point it straight ahead. I turn my right foot outward about thirty degrees. My feet are shoulder-width apart. The front of my right foot is in-line with the front of my left heel. (If my right foot is too far back or too far pointed outward, I’ll lock my hips and not be able to fully rotate by body and shift all my weight.) I square my hips and shoulders to the target, slightly bend my knees and shift my weight to the ball of my front foot. My right heel is off the ground. I flex my thumb and put it on the top of the rod handle. I hold the rod loosely and point it anywhere from nine o’clock to ten-thirty. My elbow is even with the front of my waist. The lure hangs down about a foot.

THE POWER GRIP. I start with two fingers in front of the reel stem and two behind. I pick up the line with my right index finger, and then move my hand back so only my line finger is in front of the stem. Next, I pull the line up and back, then press my fingertip against the stem, but not against the line. (I like to feel the weight of the lure to cast it accurately.)

I hold the line this way for the same reason a good fly caster doesn’t let slack form in his fly line: to keep constant tension on the line so as soon as I start the cast the lure pulls on the rod, and therefore fully loads the rod. Holding the line the conventional way made it impossible for me to keep enough tension on the line. Even worse, I found it very difficult to keep my index finger from prematurely straightening and releasing the line.

No wonder my casts were short, and high and off to the side.

(Until I got my timing down, I used a golf glove or a Band-Aid to prevent the line from cutting into my finger.)

MOVING THE ROD. I initially assumed the faster I moved the rod the farther I’d cast. For two reasons I was wrong. First: a pitcher achieves maximum power and velocity only when his arm moves in sync with his body rotation. If his arm gets ahead of his body he becomes an “arm thrower.”

No wonder major league pitchers seem to throw as if not using all their might! Maximum arm speed is reached only at the release.

Fly casters will tell you the same thing, and also for the second reason: to fully load the rod it must accelerate. If it moves too quickly the speed of the line, or in our case the lure, moves almost as fast as the rod, and therefore doesn’t fully pull on and load the rod. The cast dies well short of its target.

(A stiffer rod loads better with a shorter, faster stroke, but the stroke must still be accelerated.)

THE CAST AND POWER SNAP. I begin the cast by opening the bail, raising my elbow and slowly accelerating the rod up and back. As I move the rod, I rotate my shoulders backwards and shift my weight to the heel of my back foot. When the rod points to about one o’clock I break my wrist back. My elbow continues to point forward. (If it points out to the side, I’ll not be able finish the cast without lowering the rod tip from the target line, and prematurely unloading the rod.)  When my forearm points to about one o’clock, and my upper arm points parallel to the water or slightly upward, and the rod points parallel to the water or slightly downward, I immediately and quickly start my forward cast.

(During the back cast I never move the rod too fast. If I do, the lure will bounce at the end of the cast and prematurely unload the rod.)

My eyes are focused on an imaginary target in the sky, about forty-five degrees above the water, but higher if the wind is from behind or lower if it is from in front.

Leading with my elbow, rotating my shoulders and shoulders I accelerate the rod and soon move the tip in a straight line that points to the target and move the rod butt at a right angle to the line. (Fully rotating our hips and shoulders allows us to increase the length we can move—and therefore load—the rod at this angle.)

When my arm is about three-quarters extended, I increase my grip pressure and my acceleration and shift all my weight to my front foot. I reach maximum arm speed then, as if I’m hammering a nail, I snap my wrist without lowering the rod tip from the target line. Abruptly, I stop the rod.

My front leg is now straight. My right shoulder is all the way forward. My arm is fully extended. My weight is on the ball and toes of my front foot. I hold the rod still so I don’t lower the tip and pull the line down.

AS I DESCRIBE ALL THIS. Learning to cast a spinning rod seems a lot easier than it was. Well maybe if, like most skilled golfers, I had learned the right techniques from the start it would’ve been.

But better late than never.

I’m a native New Yorker. My writing has appeared in many publications, including The Flyfisher, Flyfishing & Tying Journal and Fishing And Hunting News. I’m also the author of the historical novel, The Fly Caster Who Tried To Make Peace With the World.

Much of my writing is about the techniques of spin and fly casting and about the spirituality/recovery of fly fishing. I often fish the streams of Westchester, the piers of New York City and the lakes of Central Park.