Tag: Clock

Selecting The Right Golf Ball

Selecting The Right Golf Ball

Article by Sam Davis









Since around 1990 there have been around five thousand different designs for golf balls, so choosing the right one can be a stressful decision for any golfer. Golf companies are competing around the clock to try and perfect the art of the golf ball, to create the perfect ball that combines long distance and perfect control. So if golf companies are having such a hard time creating the perfect ball, how are golfers supposed to know which ones to buy? Hopefully I can give you a couple pointers in this article that will help you pick out a suitable ball for your game.There are so many different types of golfers, some golfers like to play a draw, others a fade, some are power hitters and others are pure control. With so many types of golfers out there, the golf ball companies have tried to create different balls that play to different strengths. If you can find the ball that best suits your game, you will not only hit better shots, but will have a lot more fun on the course. And what is more important than enjoying your round? Nothing.Balls that are made for distance are made of two pieces. These balls are made from a very hard material that is also resistant to cuts. They have a small ball in the center that is made from a variety of materials, but the one common thing about them is that they are very tight. The harder the inner ball is, the farther a ball will travel. These hard surfaced balls are also known for their lack of spinning ability, which makes them much harder to control.Balls that are better for control and spinning ability are made up of three pieces. The inside is still tight like in the long distance balls, but the outer layer is much softer, and the third piece that the distance balls are missing is a layer of fabric between the soft shell and the tight ball. This layer helps soften the hit of the club, which makes the ball travel less distance.There are middle of the road balls as well, that are good for distance and control. These balls have multiple layers. They have the tight inside, and a somewhat soft outside. Then there are layers in between that are not as soft as the control balls’ middle layer.So what kind of ball should you choose for your game? That depends on what type of player you are. If you are beginner or have a high handicap then you probably will not hit the ball perfectly every time. This means you need to worry less about distance and focus on controlling your shots. If you an experienced golfer you will likely want to choose the multiple layered ball. Because you probably have great swing speed, you will not lose out on much distance, and you will be able to use your skills to control the ball and make it do whatever you want. You should try out different ball types to see what best fits your game, but use my guidelines to help you decide what type of ball you think might work out best.




About the Author

Sam Davis is a contributing author who writes many articles on improving your golf game. You can find more great tips and a free ebook on the perfect golf swing at Golf Swing Basics located at http://golfswingbasicssite.org










Golf Training Review – The Simple Golf Swing System

Golf Training Review – The Simple Golf Swing System

Article by Anthony Devine









Are you looking for online golf training lessons at an affordable price to help improve your golf swing? If so, this article is a review of The Simple Golf Swing system, an online golf swing e-course and guide that has already been sold and used by more than 260,000 golfers! If you are interested to learn more about a golf swing training program that claims it can reduce your golf handicap by 7 to 12 strokes in only two weeks or less, please continue to read this review.

For most golfers, it is difficult to find, perform and repeat their ideal swing. It can be downright difficult and frustrating, even for the most of seasoned golfers. When golf training, your swing requires so much, but, at the same time, so little going on for you to be successful. Ideally, you want your body to be relaxed and at ease, without tension, and allow your hands and arms to swing the club through the golf ball like a pendulum on a clock. Additionally, as you follow through and finish your swing, you need to be balanced as well as freely, yet forcefully, drive your club’s hear through the golf ball.

With The Simple Golf Swing e-course, it provides you with a full golf swing breakdown and analysis, which enables you to identify and correct your swing flaws at any point in the swing process. As discussed in the e-course, the golf swing steps include:

The Setup – In this portion of the e-course, it provides both text and pictures to illustrate proper swing discipline and setting your swing up prior to the swing to help achieve maximum success with each swing you take on the course. Any golfer, regardless of years’ experience and/or skill set, will be able to quickly go through, understand and implement the swing set up tools provided in this section of the e-course. Proper setup, both physically and mentally, can definitely reduce the average golfer’s handicap by 2-4 strokes per round.

The Grip – Without the proper golf club grip, your likelihood for success on the course is not very good. This e-course will take you by the hand and show you the proper grip you need to have a solid, correct and fluid golf swing. This one golf training tip can save the average golfer several golf strokes each time out on the course. This section of the e-course, complete with photos and text, can further reduce an average golfer’s score by another 2-3 strokes per 18 holes.

Alignment – One obvious, but often overlooked, flaw in many golfers’ swing systems is the alignment of their golf club in relation to the golf ball. This is a simple correction, but many golfers do not do it, not because they don’t want to, but rather they do not realize that their golf club’s face is misaligned to the ball in the first place. Consequently, with improper golf club alignment, the average golfer has already lowered his or her probability of success of hitting the ball straight. Once a golfer reads and visually sees the alignment issue in the e-course, he or she will be able to instantly incorporate an alignment correction into their golf swing and thus, should reduce their handicap by 2-4 strokes per round.

Timing – Proper swing timing, which is very difficult to teach, is even more difficult to obtain, but essential to the average golfer’s overall success on the golf course. Much of a golfer’s swing timing is a mental one – trying not to rush or take the swing too slow. The Simple Golf Swing system discusses timing and will help you break down this mental barrier that many golfers have, even after years of playing and experience. That’s what makes golf fun, yet frustrating all at the same time! However, with improved timing, your swing and overall score will greatly improve in a very short period of time!




About the Author

Like myself and many other golfers, golf is, bar none, the most difficult and frustrating game in the world to master and play. And yet, it is one of the most endearing and fun games to play as well. With The Simple Golf Swing system, the average golfer has the opportunity learn the necessary golf training and swing system needed to reduce his or her handicap by 7 to 12 strokes in two weeks or less.

While I’m not the world’s greatest golfer, I have enjoyed the game a little bit more each and every time I go out on to the course. If you are like me, want to learn more about improving your swing, your handicap, and are interested in learning more about an online golf training system, go to http://www.golftrainingsecrets.com, where you will find additional information about The Simple Golf Swing system.










Long Distance Spin Casting

Long Distance Spin Casting

You read up on it. You become sure you can do it. After all, hitting a good tee shot seems a lot harder than casting a spinning rod.

So you march to the lake with visions of hooking and landing a faraway lunker. You set up your fishing rod and step up to the bank and cast. Your lure, however, flies off to the right and not very far. You cast again and again. The results don’t change.

Golf didn’t seem this frustrating! So you think all you need is some practice.

But after hours and hours of it, you’re still in the same, going-nowhere casting boat, so to speak.

How discouraging! Even makes you think about giving up fishing.

Yes, I know!

But instead of giving up, I wondered, what if there’s a lot more to casting a spinning rod than what I read? What if I experiment with using other techniques, the techniques of throwing a ball and of casting a fly rod?

So I began a year of casting trials and errors. Lots of errors!

Then finally it happened: consistently, I felt the beauty of loading the rod, of watching the lure streak over the water, and land right where I wanted it to.

Here’s how I got there.

THE STANCE. I want to use one that helps me shift my weight so I get as much leverage as possible, and helps me increase the length of my casting stroke, and therefore the bend, or load, in the rod. I’m right handed, so I put my left foot forward and point it straight ahead. I turn my right foot outward about thirty degrees. My feet are shoulder-width apart. The front of my right foot is in-line with the front of my left heel. (If my right foot is too far back or too far pointed outward, I’ll lock my hips and not be able to fully rotate by body and shift all my weight.) I square my hips and shoulders to the target, slightly bend my knees and shift my weight to the ball of my front foot. My right heel is off the ground. I flex my thumb and put it on the top of the rod handle. I hold the rod loosely and point it anywhere from nine o’clock to ten-thirty. My elbow is even with the front of my waist. The lure hangs down about a foot.

THE POWER GRIP. I start with two fingers in front of the reel stem and two behind. I pick up the line with my right index finger, and then move my hand back so only my line finger is in front of the stem. Next, I pull the line up and back, then press my fingertip against the stem, but not against the line. (I like to feel the weight of the lure to cast it accurately.)

I hold the line this way for the same reason a good fly caster doesn’t let slack form in his fly line: to keep constant tension on the line so as soon as I start the cast the lure pulls on the rod, and therefore fully loads the rod. Holding the line the conventional way made it impossible for me to keep enough tension on the line. Even worse, I found it very difficult to keep my index finger from prematurely straightening and releasing the line.

No wonder my casts were short, and high and off to the side.

(Until I got my timing down, I used a golf glove or a Band-Aid to prevent the line from cutting into my finger.)

MOVING THE ROD. I initially assumed the faster I moved the rod the farther I’d cast. For two reasons I was wrong. First: a pitcher achieves maximum power and velocity only when his arm moves in sync with his body rotation. If his arm gets ahead of his body he becomes an “arm thrower.”

No wonder major league pitchers seem to throw as if not using all their might! Maximum arm speed is reached only at the release.

Fly casters will tell you the same thing, and also for the second reason: to fully load the rod it must accelerate. If it moves too quickly the speed of the line, or in our case the lure, moves almost as fast as the rod, and therefore doesn’t fully pull on and load the rod. The cast dies well short of its target.

(A stiffer rod loads better with a shorter, faster stroke, but the stroke must still be accelerated.)

THE CAST AND POWER SNAP. I begin the cast by opening the bail, raising my elbow and slowly accelerating the rod up and back. As I move the rod, I rotate my shoulders backwards and shift my weight to the heel of my back foot. When the rod points to about one o’clock I break my wrist back. My elbow continues to point forward. (If it points out to the side, I’ll not be able finish the cast without lowering the rod tip from the target line, and prematurely unloading the rod.)  When my forearm points to about one o’clock, and my upper arm points parallel to the water or slightly upward, and the rod points parallel to the water or slightly downward, I immediately and quickly start my forward cast.

(During the back cast I never move the rod too fast. If I do, the lure will bounce at the end of the cast and prematurely unload the rod.)

My eyes are focused on an imaginary target in the sky, about forty-five degrees above the water, but higher if the wind is from behind or lower if it is from in front.

Leading with my elbow, rotating my shoulders and shoulders I accelerate the rod and soon move the tip in a straight line that points to the target and move the rod butt at a right angle to the line. (Fully rotating our hips and shoulders allows us to increase the length we can move—and therefore load—the rod at this angle.)

When my arm is about three-quarters extended, I increase my grip pressure and my acceleration and shift all my weight to my front foot. I reach maximum arm speed then, as if I’m hammering a nail, I snap my wrist without lowering the rod tip from the target line. Abruptly, I stop the rod.

My front leg is now straight. My right shoulder is all the way forward. My arm is fully extended. My weight is on the ball and toes of my front foot. I hold the rod still so I don’t lower the tip and pull the line down.

AS I DESCRIBE ALL THIS. Learning to cast a spinning rod seems a lot easier than it was. Well maybe if, like most skilled golfers, I had learned the right techniques from the start it would’ve been.

But better late than never.

I’m a native New Yorker. My writing has appeared in many publications, including The Flyfisher, Flyfishing & Tying Journal and Fishing And Hunting News. I’m also the author of the historical novel, The Fly Caster Who Tried To Make Peace With the World.

Much of my writing is about the techniques of spin and fly casting and about the spirituality/recovery of fly fishing. I often fish the streams of Westchester, the piers of New York City and the lakes of Central Park.